This is an account of my second trip on the Missinaibi River. I led the trip
this time for Whitewater Unlimited, a canoe club in Oshawa, Ont. There were three canoes
with Marty Hendrix and myself, Ron Sutherland and Mark Clarkson and
Terry Sullivan and Tim Stephenson. The intention this time was to run much
more of the whitewater since we were all paddling ABS canoes.
Day One - Friday, July 2
We leave Oshawa in Terry's van around 9:00 and head north. After missing
the by-pass, we grab a bite in Orillia and then proceed towards North Bay.
We have lunch in Sundridge and make a few more stops on our 700 kilometer
voyage before having supper at the Butler Lake truck stop.
Our destination for the night is the Glendale Motel in Iroquois Falls but
they have no vacancy when we arrive. They get us three rooms at the Galaxy
M/Hotel in Val Gagne 20 minutes away. After registering, I contact
Chris Hall who is to be our shuttle driver again. He says he will join us
at the motel after supper. Chris shows up and gets acquainted and has
a few beers with everyone while we make arrangements for the next day.
Day Two - Saturday, July 3
The rest of the gang load the last of our gear while Ron and I go
to get Chris. The seven of us piled into the van as soon as we
return at 9:00. We stop in Timmins to check the tires and to get
Chris some breakfast before heading to Chapleau. Our target is the
Sportsman dining lounge for lunch.
After fortifying ourselves and checking for last minute purchases
we leave Chapleau on the last leg to the put-in. 85kms of logging road into
Missinaibi Provincial Park. With the canoes finally loaded and
equipment firmly secured we hit the water at 4:30 and paddle up
the lake. The trip up Missinaibi lake takes nearly three hours and
we see several moose grazing in the water.
We reach Quittegene Rapid at 7:20 and get out to scout from the
portage. It looks fine and we all ran it with our gear loaded in the
canoes taking on only a little bit of water. More flatwater paddling
follows till we reach our first camp south of the Hay River. The
same place I had camped three years previously. A total of eight
moose were spotted, a bald eagle, two loons and several ducks.
Day Three - Sunday, July 4
Next morning we arise to fair weather but there had been some rain
overnight. We depart our campsite at 10:45. We have lunch on a rock
in mid-stream where again I had stopped before. We see cranes, a
beaver, one cow and one bull moose.
Long Rapids and the other unnamed rapids as well as Sun rapids aren't
cause for much concern, but Barrel Rapids is a larger obstacle. We hadn't
run this one the last time and I was apprehensive about it because the
rapid is not visible from the portage. Terry and Tim are ready to
run anything and go through while the rest of us try to get a look
from the portage. I was certain I recalled a large ledge at or near
the bottom but we go ahead anyway. There were a couple of drops
with the last one being quite large which caused us to take on alot of
water but both crews survived the ordeal. We make Peterbel by 4:30
under clear skies.
We have plenty of time for exploring and some of
our little band meet a trapper and his two friends. This encounter
reveals that there is a CN crew working in the area that has been
feeding a black bear their garbage and he has become a nuisance. The
trapper shot the bear the night before but he hadn't killed it. We
were extra cautious with our food and debris that night!
Day Four - Monday, July 5
We awake to a sunny morning and lots of bugs. Fed and packed we set
off through Peterbel Marsh. The trip was quick and uneventful with a
tailwind helping us and spotting only one cow moose with two calves.
We run Swamp rapids and another unnamed rapid as well as Deadwood
Rapids to arrive at Allan Island at 2:00 in the rain. As we pulled
out of the canoes to examine the camp and/or the rapids the rain
intensified and we decide to camp for the night.
It pours as we set up camp, it pours as we set up some tarps and it pours as we cook
our supper. Later on, the rain lets up and we check out the rapid.
Terry says he wants to run the whole rapid in the morning while the rest of
us decide just to run the lower part.
Day Five - Tuesday, July 6
There was a heavy rain overnight but the skies are clear in the
morning as we eat a leisurely breakfast and break camp. Marty and I
portage below the first drop while Ron and Mark go below the second
and wait for Terry to run the first. Due to a lack of communication
while entering the current, Marty and I wind up swimming the second
and third drops. All turns out well except for the loss of my belt
knife which used to belong to my father.
The water level at Greenhill Rapids is at least two feet higher than
normal, so it is a foregone conclusion that we portage the only
section that all maps caution about. The portage is 1.6 km and runs
deep into the woods through bog and hills. The first trip through
takes twenty-five minutes. The second trip with the canoe takes a bit
longer because the flat yokes are unbearable. When the last of us
finish, Terry and Tim have paddled up river to have a look.
Reunited, we continue to Calf Rapids which is technical but not too
difficult. We see an ABS canoe wrapped around a rock. At St. Peter's
Rapids, I decide to walk as the standing waves will probably swallow
the front of the canoe with me in it. Some of the less confident
paddlers are glad to change partners and run this one. Terry and Ron
lose a bit of dignity as they broach on a small rock after the big
stuff is over but they did remain out of the water. Marty and Mark
run it empty without any trouble.
Throughout the day a tailwind has shifted with us as we rounded each
bend in the river. It also knocks down numerous trees in the forest.
Back with the original crews, we reach Splitrock Falls and camp at
around 6:00. There are two campsites here but the majority feels that
there is insufficient room for three tents on the lower one so we camp
in the trees at the top.
Day Six - Wednesday, July 7
Soon after leaving the falls around 10 am, Terry develops a migraine
headache and is vomiting over the side of his canoe. We slow our pace
as Tim paddles and Terry curls up. We make our way to Thunder Falls
and set up a tent for Terry to recouperate for a few hours. The rest
of us carry over the portage and spend some time next to the falls.
To keep pace with my first trip we need to cover 60 km today, but that
doesn't seem likely now.
When Terry recovers enough to continue, we run a small rapid below the
falls and make for Brunswick Portage. The campsite here does not
appeal to us so we move on. At an unnamed rapid we find a campsite
that suits us. There are lots of flies. There are mosquitoes and
blackflies but these are just plain flies! Most of the group cooks
and eats out on the rocks and spends some time there cleaning or
fishing.
Day Seven - Thursday, July 8
A fine drizzle greets us the next morning but the trees shelter our
camp. Tim catches a Cisco, a type of whitefish, which spurs Terry to
throw a few casts. He matches Tim's Cisco with a pickerel. Both
are released. We depart about 9:45 and head for the logging bridge.
The phrase "How far to this bridge?", keeps ringing in my ears all
morning. After running a rapid and drifting, it appears we didn't
camp as far along as I thought. We finally reach the bridge around
2:00 and stop for lunch.
There is a pick-up truck parked by the
bridge, left there by a fisherman no doubt. At Two Portage Falls, we
see some gear at the near end. This turns out to be two Frenchmen in
a square-stern canoe fishing the rapids. They give us some tips and
say they are from Mattice. They tell us it takes them two hours to
drive to Mattice and I tell them it takes us two days to paddle.
Terry runs the 'falls' empty and solo taking a very long time to line
up after the first drop. No one else thinks it's a good idea to try
it but he makes it down. We paddle on to Pond Falls and set up camp
after missing the side trail leading to the campsite the first time
over the portage. We all go for a swim at the bottom of the falls
before supper. We spend some leisure time on the rocks beside the
falls after supper.
Day Eight - Friday, July 9
Devil Cap Falls can be seen from the end of the Pond Falls portage so
we have a rigorous morning. Two canoes run Devil Rapids while Ron and
I line one canoe around it after getting some photos of the others. We
paddle and drift our way to Albany Rapids where we see three other
canoes gingerly picking their way through the rock garden. This rapid
is much shorter and less difficult than I remember from three years
ago.
The other party paddles over to us at the bottom and we chat for
awhile. They are from Ottawa and are paddling their fiberglass
flatwater canoes all the way to Moosonee. They started two days ahead of
us but have picked a campsite behind the one we are aiming for
tonight. We leave them behind and head for the Beaver Falls portage.
Immediately afterward is Lower Beaver Rapid which we run. Next is
Sharprock Rapids which I have to convince Marty not to run but to line.
As we pull the canoe into a niche below the first bad drop and climb
in we are pinned as Terry and Tim line their canoe into the same
niche. This causes considerable friction and tempers flare but this
passes soon after. Close quarters for this long usually makes for a
bit of tension eventually but once it is vented things get back to
normal.
It begins to rain lightly then heavily and then tapers off again as
we reach our last camp at Glassy Falls.
The view of the falls makes this an attractive campsite but the evidence
of teen partiers and bonfires detracts somewhat. After trudging our gear
through the loose sand of the beach and setting up camp I boil enough water
for hot drinks and soup to warm everyone up. We are all wet from the rain
and the insects are thick. We get a fire going and all have supper. As
we are clearing up, two ATV's arrive with four young people out for
the weekend. They promise to keep their revelry to a minimum tonight
as the big party is tomorrow night. We're glad we won't be here.
Dusk sees the skies clear and the winds pick up. After hitting the
sack we hear a chainsaw a couple of times but that is all. The winds
get pretty fierce at times but calm down soon.
Day Nine - Saturday, July 10
6:00 finds Marty and me out of our tent and starting to break camp.
Soon everyone is up and making breakfast saying "What's the hurry?".
We are on our way by 8:00 in bright clear sunshine just a little
chilled. The day warms very quickly and we head for another rock
garden called Crow Rapids. This used to be a smaller version of
Albany Rapids but now I think the roles are reversed. There is
nothing too severe except one ledge reaching from one shore to the
other. There is only a narrow gap which is hard to see from the stern
of the canoe. Tim and Terry find the gap but the other two canoes
drop over the ledge. This is fun and has no ill effects on equipment
or paddlers.
The last stretch of water is without obstruction so we drift alot and
prolong the experience. We make Mattice around 10:30 and find the
take-out. There is a party camped here who are from a youth camp.
They arrived the day before and are setting out for Moosonee today. We
leave our gear to find the restaurant and have lunch and sign the
guest book.
Hap Wilson passed through recently and had some equipment stolen so
we are glad that there is someone watching our stuff. Chris arrives
at the stroke of twelve right on time. We return to the canoes and
load everything into the van and begin our three hour drive back to
the Galaxy Motel for a shower and clean sheets. After a good night's
sleep, we will head for home.
Last Updated: Wednesday, September 3, 1997